Wednesday, January 30, 2008

To Decant or Not to Decant

The idea of decanting brings images of blue bloods standing around a cocktail table with dozens of beautiful crystal bottles staring back at them. I used to think that people decanted their wine just to look "fancy". This may be true for some, but the real reason that wine began being decanted is because there was no filtration system in place for wine back in the day. The wine that would be poured from the barrel would contain a considerable amount of sediment and a system needed to be put in place to remove this before drinking. Now most of our wines are filtered to a very clear state and we don't have to decant to remove sediment but do it to enhance flavor prior to drinking.

When to decant wine?
1. Decant if your wine has sediment - Wines deposit sediment as a natural part of aging, some more than others. Decanting the wine can help to separate the clear wine from the sediment. Decanting the wine also introduces air into the wine — letting the wine breathe — releasing the aromas and enhancing flavors, particularly useful for red wines that are a little harsh.

2. If your wine has been aging for a long time - Decanting old wines, just prior to serving, helps to ensure that the wines’ clarity and brilliance are not obscured by any deposit that may have developed over time (pour slowly and avoid decanting the last ounce).

3. If your wine if very young - Decant young wines as much as several hours before they are served to give the wine a chance to breath, simulating a stage of development that might normally be acquired after years of aging (pour quickly, even up-ending the bottle – the idea is to expose the wine to air).

4. Just for fun! - I like to decant just to see if mine wine in the decanter tastes different than the wine I poured right out of the bottle. Why not! Decanters are also pretty so if you are having a party why not show them off. Just don’t keep them sitting out for too long.

How to Decant Wine?
How to Decant Aged Wine
For old wines with sediment one needs to be very careful when pouring the wine into a decanter. First, stand the bottle up for several hours to allow the sediment to settle at the bottom. Fine sediment will take longer to settle to the bottom of the bottle.

Use a lit candle or lamp if you can't see where the sediment is in the bottle. Hold the bottle of wine so that the area just below the neck of the wine bottle can be seen through the light while pouring. Ever so slowly begin pouring the aged wine into the decanter. Be patient. Hold the bottle as much as possible perpendicular to the candle. As the last one-third of the wine is poured, carefully watch for sediment. Stop pouring when any sediment appears in the neck of the bottle.

How to Decant Young Red Wine
For young red wines, splash the wine into the decanter. The more it splashes into the decanter, the more it comes in contact with oxygen. Let the wine settle and rest for a short time.

How Long to decant?
If you are decanting your wine in order to let it breathe you will usually want it to sit in the decanter 1/2 hour to 1 hour before drinking. Your goal is for the wine to be giving off aromas. If it's not releasing flavors into the air, it's going to taste still and blah. There is however a point where you can let your wine decant too long. You would not want your wine to sit out at room temperature for 8 hours or more. At this point the wine will be come oxidized and begin to taste more like vinegar and/or sherry. Remember, back in the old says wine was kept at about 50 degrees so being at 70+ for a substantial amount of time would be bad for the wine.

What Kind of Decanter?
Wine decanter design varies from the purely function to extravagantly decorated, but sometimes unusual design and functionality can go hand-in-hand as in the Orbital Decanter that, when removed from its base, will sit elegantly on your table while a gentle orbital movement increases the breathing of your wine with minimal disturbance. But the basic point of the decanter is to let air into the wine and to remove the sediment so whichever type you prefer is the one you should chose. There really is no right or wrong decanter.

Of course, you can always let your wine breathe by just taking the cork out of the bottle, but very little air touches the surface and it will take much longer to achieve the desired effect. Some experts prefer to let wine breathe in the wineglass but I personally find it hard to wait patiently once it's been poured.
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Monday, January 28, 2008

Wine 101 - Understanding Flavors and Aromas

One thing that can be the most intimidating about being around experienced wine drinkers is when they start talking about the flavors and aromas they are experiencing as they swirl, sniff, and drink their wine. When I first started really getting into wine and going to more and more tastings these were the guys I’d try to steer clear of. I was just starting to understand what it meant for the wine to be "oaky" and they were talking about the spice in the nose and the leather and tobacco in the finish. When they’d look at me and ask, are you getting the green pepper, I’d just smile and nod and then look at my friend and roll my eyes. We’ve all be there. But as time goes on and you start tasting lots of different types of wine (and there really is no better way to learn than to do lots of side by side tastings) you will start to pick up more of these flavors and they will help you to begin to identify the style, age, and region of the different types of wine. In my first 101 article – "Quick Terms to Increase Your Tasting Enjoyment" I discuss the meanings of words such as sweetness, acidity, structure, body, alcohol, and fruitiness. Please feel free to refer back to "Quick Terms" if you need a refresher.

Beginning tasters often feel that they "cannot smell anything" or can't think of a way to describe the aroma of wine. I know this was certainly a problem for me for quiet some time. Fortunately, it is very easy to train our noses and brains to connect and quickly link terms with aromas. The fastest way is to make physical standards to illustrate important and major notes in wine aroma. Here are some quick basics for matching flavors/aromas to different varietals:
Syrah or Shiraz - Aromas and flavors of wild black-fruit (such as blackcurrant), with overtones of black pepper spice and roasting meat. The abundance of fruit sensations is often complemented by warm alcohol and gripping tannins. Toffee notes if present come not from the fruit but from the wine having rested in oak barrels. Hearty and spicy are terms you will often hear associated with Syrah.

Merlot – Often considered an introductory wine for beginners because of it’s softer tannins. You know how strong or soft tannins are by the dry, bitter feeling you get on the sides of your tongue. It is sort of like the feeling you get when you drink strong tea. Black cherry and herbal flavors are typical.

Cabernet – Rich currant qualities of Cabernet Sauvignon wine can change to that of pencil box. Bell pepper is also a flavor you will often hear associated with Cabernet. Vanilla notes if present come not from the fruit but from the oak treatment.

Pinot Noir - Very unlike Cabernet Sauvignon. The structure is delicate and fresh. The tannins are very soft; this is related to the low level of polyphenols (tannins from the grape skins). The aromatics are very fruity (cherry, strawberry, plum), often with notes of tea-leaf, damp earth, or worn leather.

Zinfandel - Often has a zesty flavor with berry and pepper.

Chardonnay - Often wider-bodied (and more velvety) than other types of dry whites, with rich citrus (lemon, grapefruit) flavors. Fermenting in new oak barrels adds a buttery tone (vanilla, toast, coconut, toffee). Tasting a USD Californian Chardonnay should give citrus fruit flavors, hints of melon, vanilla, some toasty character and some creaminess. French Burgundies can taste very different, however we will not go into that quiet yet.

Riesling - Riesling wines are much lighter than Chardonnay wines. The aromas generally include fresh apples. The Riesling variety expresses itself very differently depending on the district and the winemaking. Rieslings should taste fresh. If they do, then they might also prove tastier and tastier as they age. An aroma often associated with Riesling is Petrol. You will also hear green apple, apricot, peach, and pear a lot.

Sauvignon Blanc – Also lighter than Chardonnay - Sauvignon Blanc normally shows a herbal character suggesting bell pepper or freshly mown grass. The dominating flavors range from sour green fruits of apple, pear and gooseberry through to tropical fruits of melon, mango and blackcurrant. Quality unoaked Sauvignon Blancs will display smoky qualities; they require bright aromas and a strong acid finish; they are best grown in cool climates.

Try this quick tip, if you who can’t get out and do lots of tastings. Train your senses by putting tiny samples of green pepper, apple, lemon, melon, toast, raspberry in baby food or other small jars. Label the bottoms of the jars with the different wines the aromas are associated with. Try to play the matching game and make associations between the different wines and the smells that tend to go with them. Soon you will start to associate these different aromas and flavors with the different styles of wine you will begin to feel more confident throwing them out in wine discussions and comparing notes with friends. Also know that wine tasting can be a tricky subject and that flavors and aromas are subjective. What one person thinks smells like raspberry, another may say smells like bell pepper. You will rarely be wrong with your association. Have fun with it! I can’t think of a better topic to practice, so start training now and pour yourself a glass. CHEERS!
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Learn wine tasting with this great wine 101 guide

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

If Wine Had Personality - Zinfandel

ZINFANDEL

Personality: Thick and jammy, like blackberries simmering.

Origin: Croatia, though virtually all of the top zinfandels are now grown in northern California.

Aroma, flavor, and texture: Like a big boysenberry pie with vanilla ice cream – full bodied, mouth filling, and flannel soft.

Cost: $12 to $30.

Try it with: Meat loaf, barbecued ribs, burgers, bean and vegetable casseroles, or pot roast. Open a bottle with Chipotle Barbecue Burgers with Slaw.

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

If Wine Had Personality - Cabernet Sauvignon

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Personality: The preeminent classic red variety, thanks to its complexity, majestic structure, richness, and capacity to age for decades – the Sean Connery of red wines.

Origin: Bordeaux, France, but terrific examples are now produced in virtually every great red wine region of the world.

Aroma, flavor, and texture: Similar to merlot, only bigger, deeper, more intense, and powerful. Watch out, though, for poorly made, cheap cabernet sauvignon, which can be dank and weedy.

Cost: Moderate ($15) to expensive ($75); plan to spend at least $25 for a very good bottle.

Try it with: Grilled steak (cabernet and grilled steak are considered a classic American pairing) and roast beef.
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Tuesday, January 15, 2008

How Green Is Your Wine Buying

Organic wines are one of the hottest trends in restaurants today, according to a report last week from the National Restaurant Association. But what is the difference between traditional winemaking practices, and organic practices?

Conventional wine means that the winemakers us an industrialized agricultural system characterized by mechanization, monocultures, and the use of synthetic inputs such as chemical fertilizers and pesticides, with an emphasis on maximizing productivity and profitability.
Organic winemaking is a type of agricultural process that promotes the use of renewable resources and management of biological cycles to enhance biological diversity, without the use of genetically modified organisms, or synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or fertilizers. Organic production is a system that integrates "cultural, biological, and mechanical practices that foster cycling of resources, promote ecological balance, and conserve biodiversity. At its most basic level, organic wine is made from grapes that have been grown without the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, fungicides and herbicides.

When a label says "organic," it means the wine has met certain standards that are set by a government agency. Different nations have their own certification criteria, so what’s organic in one country may not be so in another. Many wineries that are technically organic still choose not to be certified. There are many reasons for this. Some do not want the added costs and bureaucracy of registering. Others may disagree with their government’s standards. It can also be a marketing decision. Whatever the case, they are not allowed to use "organic" on their labels. To make the claim on its label, a wine must be made with at least 70 percent organic grapes, according to the Organic Consumers Association. There’s no official seal for "wines made from organic grapes", so you’ll have to read the label or ask the wine store owner where to find them.

Organic wine can also be broken down further to include biodynamic and sustainable wine making practices.

Biodynamic winemaking follows the teachings of Austrian anthroposophist Rudolph Steiner (1861-1925), and incorporates homeopathic treatments, as well as astronomical and astrological considerations, into the organic process. His is a system of farming and damaging natural resources to produce the highest possible crop quality. The central goal of biodynamic farming is to create and maintain unique, self-sustaining farm ecosystems. This is achieved by building and maintaining soil fertility through composting and crop rotation. Unique to biodynamic farming is the application of biodynamic preparations (organic nutrient teas) that stimulate soil and compost microbial activity and stimulate the life forces of soil and plants. For biodynamic wines, two related, prevalent ideas exist: life follows rhythms and the farm should be self-sustainable. Like organic farming, biodynamic agriculture uses no synthesized herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers. Unlike organic farming, though, biodynamic producers build upon the organic base with their adherence to life’s rhythms and a self-containing eco-system. According to wine maker and biodynamic advocate Nicolas Joly: "Organics permits nature to do its job; biodynamie permits it to do its job more."

Biodynamic growers believe that the Earth and plant life have rhythms in respect to their position to the moon, sun and stars. The earth inhales and exhales. High and low tides are great examples of the earth’s rhythms. Another example is the cycle of sap within vines. During periods of an ascending moon, the earth breathes out, and growth is focused above the soil. Sap flows upward. During a descending moon, the earth inhales, and sap is drawn downward into the soil. Like grape vines, trees react the same way. For this reason, cutting down large trees such as a maple is best avoided during an ascending moon.

Biodynamic producers time vineyard and cellar work to enhance life’s rhythms. For example, producers will rack their wines—term for removing sediment, by moving the wine from one barrel to another, generally using gravity—during a descending moon or inhalation. The theory: the gravitational pull compacts the sediment, rendering an easier racking. Also, many producers believe the increase in gravitational pull holds the aromas in the wine being racked. Thus, the aromas do not escape from the wine!

Sustainable wine refers to an agricultural system that is ecologically sound, economically viable, and socially just – a system capable of maintaining productivity indefinitely. Sustainable agriculture was addressed by Congress in the 1990 Farm Bill. Under that law, "the term sustainable agriculture means an integrated system of plant and animal production practices having a site-specific application that will, over the long term:
  • Satisfy human food and fiber needs
  • Enhance envionmental quality and the natural resource base upon which the agricultural economy depends
  • Make the most efficient use of nonrenewable resources and o-farm resources and integrate, where appropriate, natural biological cycles and controls
    Sustain the economic viability of farm operation
  • Enhance the quality of life for farmers and society as a whole."
    Wineries that take the ecology of the vineyard into account, and try to minimize chemical treatments an energy use, are considered sustainable. Some jokingly refer to themselves as "organic unless something goes wrong."

So, do biodynamic, organic, and sustainable wines taste better than conventionally made wines? These wines communicate the maker’s passion and their commitment to nature. Biodynamic wine is an expression of the place, soil and microclimate—components of the French-term "terroir." If well made, then biodynamic wines are delicious, unique and hold a sense of place. Monty Waldin in Biodynamic Wines describes the uniqueness source as "farm individuality." This individuality often results in some of the most expressive and interesting wine out there.
Want to try a few of these dynamic wines?

Check out Bonterra Merlot (California) 2005 and Sepp Moser Gruner Veitliner 2006 (Austria).

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If Wine Had Personality - Merlot

MERLOT

Personality: Depends on price - inexpensive merlots are simple, basic red wines of little character. But if you spend $25 or more, you'll get a wine as rich and majestic as cabernet sauvignon.

Origin: The Bordeaux region of France; California and Washington State.

Aroma, flavor, and texture: Cocoa, red plums, cassis, espresso, cedar, tobacco; medium to full bodied. The top merlots have a lot of structure.

Cost: From $10 for inexpensive Chilean merlot, $20 to $40 for a very good merlot from California, to more than $2000 for a bottle for the top Bordeax made merlot.

Try it with: Meat dishes such as roasted chicken, braised short ribs, or steak.
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Monday, January 14, 2008

If Wine Had a Personality - Syrah/Shiraz

SYRAH/SHIRAZ

Personality: Rich, dramatic, even a bit wild

Origin: Northern Rhone Valley of France; also made in Australia (where it's called shiraz) and the US.

Aroma flavor, and texture: Wild berries, chocolate, black licorice, black pepper with hints of meatiness; medium to full bodied flavor, with a soft, thick mouthfeel. Australian shirazes, in particular, are big, plush examples of the wine world.

Cost: Modest (good shirazes can be had for $15) to $40 plus for the top French examples.

Try it with: Lamb or slow-cooked hearty meaty stews and casseroles.